Sicily: Towards SIRACUSA passing by Noto

14th August

Today we are going to reach Siracusa, we fall in love with. But we want to stop in Noto, even if we should visit also Scicli, Piazza Armerina and...many others but the time at disposal is nearly over. The landascape all around is noteworthy and it's typical of the Iblei Mountains: olive trees, barren expanses, fences and masserias...

We arrive in Noto that is surrounded by walls, we park the car not too far and we venture in this network of little parallel streets interspersed by scenographic squares and impressive staircases that connect terraces and slopes. Everything was built with the local soft golden and pinkish coloured stone that conveys to the city a hearty aspect. You can walk along the main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele and find a series of churches and noteworhty buildings.

It's so nice to stare at them and to stop to observe them because they all have something spectacular... Look at these balconies, for example. They are on the facade of Palazzo Nicolaci that stand in a side street very close to the Dom. And they stand for its peculiarity: curved iron grates supported on stone corbels with grotesque figures rapresenting mermaids, sphinxes, lions, unicorns, winged horse and many other... So take a couple of hours to wander in Noto and find out such masterpieces. One of the typical products of this part of the region are the almonds and you can see them getting dry on the side of the streets.

In the afternoon we leave for Siracusa that is just 30km from here but it's on the seaside and we will stay there for some days in order to discover the eastern coast of Sicily. Riding the motorway, we pass by very green landscapes, here there are a lot of vineyards but in the distance we can admire the sea.
Siracusa, exactly like Ragusa, is divided in two different parts: the most recent part of the town and the eldest one: Ortigia.
First of all, try to get an accomodation in Ortigia, it's a litte bit unconfrotable because you cannot go in by car but the atmosphere you can breathe is something unique.
Wherever you go you can find a crowd of beautiful spots, artisans' workshops, so beautiful foreshortenings. You wander along Via Cavour, full of little osterias and restaurants (The one I must suggest you is "Tavernetta da Piero" in Via Cavour, where you can taste some of the best fish dishes of the town) to emerge on such a wide square, whose brightness and warmth leaves you open mouthed!!!
First of all the Dom standing out against a deep blue sky: the contrast between the white marble and the shining sun reflecting upon it. The inner part of the church preserves the most ancient styles and architectures while the facade was completly rebuilt after the eartquake of the 17th century, in accordance with the Baroque standards. 
On the southern part of the square there is the Chiesa di Santa Lucia alla Badia, just follow the street next to its right and you will reach the coast and the Fonte Aretusa.
From here you can also admire the Castello Maniace, one of the most ancient Swabian fortress against the attacks coming from the sea, later transformed in a residence.
The seaside here is not so easy to reach and there are no big beaches so, tomorrow morning ... let's go exploring the country nearby.
Siracusa is full of B&B and so it's easy to find confortable accomodations, very close to the centre. Otherwise, along the coast of Ortigia, there is a plenty of beautiful hotels, facing the sea.
Grand Hotel Ortigia 5*, Viale Mazzini 12 
Algila Ortigia Charme Hotel 4*S, Via Vittorio 93

GROUPER RAVIOLI WITH SCAMPIS 
(see above picture)

For the pasta:
300g flour
3 eggs
salt

For the filling:

500 g fillet of grouper
1 potato (about 100 g)
1 tablespoon of ricotta cheese
1 sprig of marjoram
500 g prawns

For the sauce:
2 cloves of garlic
2 tomatoes
1 bunch of parsley
1/2 cup of dry white wine
extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

First of all, start preparing pasta for the raviolis: pour the flour on a plain, giving it a fountain shape. In the middle add the eggs and a pinch of salt. Work it until you get an homogeneous dough and let it rest.

Boil the potato for half an hour, peel it and reduce it to a puree with a potato masher. Clean the gropper fillets by removing the bones and chop them. Mix the fish with the potato, the majoram and the cheese and finally add salt and pepper.

Start flattening the dough and stretch the pasta with a rolling pin. Arrange little balls of the mixture on the pastry not to close to each other. Cover it with another pastry and cut them with a pastry wheel. Go on doing it until both dough and mixture are over.

Finally prepare the sauce: put in a saucepan 1 clove garlic, previuosly chopped, with 2 tablespoons of oil and let it fry slightly. Add the diced tomatoes and the prawns and tinge with white wine.

Cook the ravioli in abundant boiling salted water just for 2-3 minutes and drain them. Pour them in the pan of the sauce and mix everything together.

Garnish the plate with some leaves of mint.